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BREAKING AND TRAINING. 



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B&0I3TSB BOOE AITD JOB PBmTma 
' EOUSS, 1889. 



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/ 

W. L. HALL S 

Copy-righted 1889 by W. L, Hall. AH rights 
reserved. 

NEW SYSTEM 



-OF- 



HORSE TRAINING 



Consists of a Thorough Manage- 

1 i^\.^ 



^ 



clI- ment of all the 
EVIL HABITS 



Kno\vn to Horse FL 



;V OF 



'O/Vq, 



\ OCT 11 1889'^ 



HE DOES WHAT HE TEACHES. 



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c 



PREFACE. 

In presenting this work to the public, I well 
understand that it will be criticised, but I have 
. the consciousness that when the public compre- 
hends my "New Theory" of horse breaking and 
training it will be appreciated. This work is 
especially designed tq supplv the need of the busy 
farmer and stock raiser. The author has been 
impressed with the almost universal lack of ability 
to judge accurately of the value of a horse; there- 
fore the subject of training has received elaborate 
consideration, and as the value of an animal de- 
pends greatly on the care and success with which 
it has been trained, it is believed that the atten- 
tion given to it will be productive of valuable re- 
sults. The age of an animal has an important 
bearing in estimating both value and use. To 
cover this point of vital interest, I have introduc- 
ed an entirely New Method and instruction as 
will enable any one, by a little study and observ- 
ation, to ascertain with perfect accurac}^ the -age 
of an animal at any period. The value of this 
knowledge cannot well be overestimated. With 
this information, and the ability to understand 
special characteristics and defects, the arts of the 
jockey will be effectually provided against. 



Breaking and Training 

HORSES, 



TO CATCH A COLT OR WILD HORSE. 

Turn him into a small yard, where there is no 
chance to run very far, or break away; it would 
alarm him too much to try to catch and hold him 
to put on the halter, and bridle, there is danger 
of being hurt. This difficulty you can easily 
overcome as follows: Take a pole, ten or twelve 
feet in length, or as much longer as you can use 
to advantage, and handle him with it, until per- 
fectly regardless of being touched or handled 
with a pole, and then proceed carefully to put 
the halter on, by petting and caressing him. At 
all events, you must be careful and patient, tak- 
ing time, and repeating until you are sure of suc- 
cess. 

TO CATCH A BROKE HORSE. 

Follow him, as if you did not care to catch 
him, and he will naturally go to the corner of the 
yard or pasture. He will invariably try to keep 
his rear parts toward you, but gently throw clods 



of dirt, small stones, cobs or any thing else that 
}^ou can without injuring him, until he reverses 
his position, then walk carefully toward him, and 
proceed in this manner until you catch him. Just 
keep your temper, and you will b^ able to catch 
any horse in a short time. 

TO BRKAK A COLT TO LEAD. 
Put a halter on him, tie a loop in his tail, pass 
the halter stale through the loop, keeping hold 
of the end of stale, drawing gently, starting him 
at the same time. You must move with the colt 
keeping yourself and him in the same position, 
after he has traveled for some time in this man- 
ner, change to other sid„' and proceed as stated 
above. Always remember a horse must be 
handled on both sides, for his brain is divided. 
You must educate one side as well as the other. 

HITCHING THE COLT SO THAT HE CAN- 
NOT LEARN TO PULL. 
Hitch the colt a few times as follows, and he 
will never learn the habit. Buckle a strap around 
the front foot just above the hoof. Bore a hole 
in the manger, put the halter stale through the 
hole, and tie to the strap, which is buckled around 
his foot. The moment the colt attempts to pull. 



5 

lie is disconcerted and disabled, and comes ahead, 
from the fact of his foot being jerked from under 
him in surprise. 

ANOTHER METHOD. 
Provide yourself with a small rope, not over 
one-half an inch in diameter, one that cannot be 
broken, twenty feet long; double this, and put 
tlie end forming a hwp under the tail, bring for- 
ward o\'er the back, twisting two (^r three times; 
now pass the cords forward on each side of neck 
through the halter ring, and tie to the manger. 
If )'ou wish to be ver}' particular, wind the part 
of the rope under the tail with a piece of a rag to 
prevent making the tail sore. There is pressure 
upon the head to which he becomes accustomed; 
and all inclination to pulling is prevented and 
overcome. Another way is to make a longer 
loop, put the loop on like ordinary breeching, 
loringing it up on his back, twisting and passing 
the cords in the same manner as the above. 
When once broken, however, they are honest and 
reliable afterwards. 

PRKLIMINARY BITTING. 

M)' acKice is to bit your colts when two years 



6 



old preparin*^ them for actual bitting and trainin^^'. 
You cannot handle a colt too much, the more the 
better. F'irst thing- in bitting a colt, take a piece 
of three-eights inch rope about four feet long; put 
rope into colt's mouth, the some as a bit, and 
bring up and tie on top of head, let him loose to 
run around the ward until he ijets used to bit. 
Then take the same rope, j)]acc in mouth just as 
before, bring rope back af far as collar goes, tie 
on top of neck tight enough so that it will stay- 
in colt's mouth, then gradually tighten until you 
get his head in the position you wish him to carry 
it. 

BOSS BITTING AND BREAKING RIG. 

The boss bitting and breaking rig is the best 
on earth. Why is this called the "15oss l>itting 
and Breaking Rig.''" l^^cause it is the conqueror 
of colts and horses, no matter how ugly or vicious 
they are, this rig \\'ill beat them out e\'cry time. 
It will conquer the kicker, sulker, runaway and 
etc. The boss bitting rig consists of two pieces 
of rope, each fifty-five feet in length of three- 
eights and five-eights inch rope. The three- 
eights rope is used for bridle, bridle-reins, check- 
reins, side check-reins, martingales and driving 



7 



lilies. The five-eii^hts is for harness. The first 
step is to take five-eights rope, double this, tie a 
knot about four feet from the centre using the 
h~)op for breecliing letting it come lower than 
ordinary breeching, placing the knot just in front 
of hips in centre of back, slip knot on rope so as 
to adjust it properly, to bring breeching to fit the 
horse you are breaking. Tie another knot so it 
will come on top of his neck just where the collar 
goes. Bring the ends of rope, one on each side 
of neck, like a collar, cross in front and pass back 
in place of tug or side strap to breeching, putting 
the rope through the breeching at the flank, pas- 
sing the rope under the bellv to opposite sides, 
putting once around tug rope at the place, where 
the tug buckle is on common harness, bringing 
it up to back rope, putting each rope over single 
back rope, then down around tug rope back of 
belly rope carrying forward putting around the 
collar rope and tug rope, back to where tug and 
back rope comes together which forms the big 
buckle, leaving ends of rope hanging. The pur- 
pose for which they are used will be shown farth- 
er on. To complete our "I^oss Bitting Rig" we 
must have a bridle. Take three-eights rope. 



double it, tic a knot in centre forming a loop to 

put in the mouth, like bits, having the knot come 

on tlic nose, where the nose piece of halter comes, 
tie another knot about eiL!;ht or ten inches above 
the first knot, so that it will come at tlie roots of 
fore-top, putting- fore-top throug-h knot, bringing 
the ropes between the ears t)'ing a loop in eacli 
piece of rope at base of ear for gag runners, pas- 
sing the ropes down on each side of the liead, 
crossing under the jaw to opposite side, putting 
through the loop which is in the mouth, take a 
string and tie the ropes together, where they 
cross under the jaw, and from there put them 
through the gag runners, passing back through 
back rope of harness, bringing forward through 
bridle bit or loop in the the mouth, draw the 
rope and tie if, so that it will bear on him to suit 
yourself, pass the remaining rope between fore 
legs, and fasten to belly rope for martingales. 
This makes you the best and cheapest bitting, 
that can be made. 'Care must be taken not to 
bring too much restraint up on the bit by tying 
the ropes too short, at first. It is bad policy to 
keep a colt checked up too long at a time, as it 
becomes tiresome, which would cause the disa- 



grceable habit of sulking. If, however the colt 
should fight the restraint of the bit or check, it 
should be left on till the fit exhausts itself, and 
he shows a disposition to submit to its restraint. 
Short lessons at first, and gradually keeping on 
loncrer as the mouth becomes hardened by the bit 
and the colt will bear it withoi^ fatigue, is the 
best course. When thoroughly bitted in this 
manner, he will also be broke to harness. Vou 
are now ready for the next step of teaching, to- 
rein right and left, stop, start back, etc. Untie 
rope used for check-reins, side-reins and martin- 
gales to use for lines. Bring lines back on each 
side of the colt, passing off line around the hind- 
legs just above hock-joints, you standing on near 
side of him about four feet from flank, with a line 
in each hand, pull on the near line, starting the 
colt at the same time. Vou are leading as well 
as driving him. Work the colt easily till he 
leans what you want him to do, then reverse 
position. Always remember to keep on the side 
of the colt, with one line around the hock, until 
he drives well. A colt can buck, kick and jump 
as much as he wishes to, but as long as you keep 
this position you will have full control of him. If 
the colt should, in some w^ay, get the start of you, 



lO 



drop one of the lines, stand still, and let him run 
and jump until willing to stop. If he is just cun- 
nini^- and treacherous enoui^h to be watching" for 
advantage, and you are afraid you cannont keep 
control of him, put the tripper on, and use it well. 
You can soon bring him to time. After your 
colt is well brcfven in this manner, take two 
poles, nine and one-half feet long, bore a hole 
one and one-half feet from the end, in both poles, 
put ends of rope mentioned before, hanging to 
harness, through the holes in the poles bringing 
this end of them up in position of thills, tying in 
place, then tie the other ends together with a 
rope three and a half feet a part. Drive him 
around in the poles until there is perfect submis- 
sion to them, guiding promptly to the reins, and 
submitting to the poles striking the flank or heels 
without exciting the least fear. Just as soon as 
he reins well, you are all right. 

TO TEACH COLT TO BACK. 
Place your thumb nail on a nerve on the inside 
of the point of the shoulder, each side of the 
breast, and say "back." Then pet him and he 
will soon learn to back at the word. 



1 1 



TO BREAK COLTS TO DRIVE SINGLE. 

After driving your colt in poles as described 
before, put on your harness, in most cases it is 
perfectly safe to hitch them into road cart or sul- 
ky. I advise putting on my popular tripper 
when hitched up for the first time, so if he should 
become frightened you can check him at once. 
A few lessons of this type will bring him out 
straight. 

DRIVING DOUBLE. 

The first point, Iwould call your especial atten- 
tion is the fittimg of the harness; it should in 
every respect fit well, and should not be drawn 
to tight anywhere. See that the bridle fits well, 
that the cheek pieces are long enough to let the 
bit rest naturally and easily in the mouth; always 
using a good solid harness; also seeing that your 
whiffletree and neck-yoke are safe. When first 
hitching colt or colts up let your vehicle be the 
front part of a bob-sled, driv^ing until they arc 
thoroughly broken to drive double; always re- 
membering not to worry the colt, as it irritates 
and raises his temper. Do not drive him when 
hungry or thirst)'. Next put your colt on to a 



12 



lumber wagon, driving him slow at first. Do not 
make the draught heavy, as he cannot be expect- 
ed to draw like an old horse without experience 
and practice. The great trouble with most peo- 
l)le, in training colts, is, they attempt too much; 
and doing too much now is liable to spoil all. 
Loud "yelling" or cracking of the whip should 
not be permitted under any circumstances. 



THE TRlPPh:R OR W. 
The tripper is used to subdue a horse of any 
bad'habits; such as the following: running-away, 
kicking, rearing, etc. This is important to 

all horse owners and raisers. To make the trip- 
per, provide yourself with a piece of rope, eight 
feet long; tic three rings in the rope about one 
foot apart; put the rope around the horse just 
back of fore legs, like a saddle girt, letting centre 
ring come under centre of the belly; then put a 
strap with a ring on, around each fore foot. Take 
a rope, twenty feet in length, run one end 
through the ring on near side of the horse, then 
through the ring on the near foot, putting back 
through the centre ring then through the ring on 
the other foot, bringing up to ring on off side of 



13 

horse and tie securely. Take hold of the other 
end of the rope, and stand back of the horse. 
When he rears and pitches jerk his feet from un- 
der him, letting him down gently until he is will- 
ing to give up. This is a valuable means of 
control; it enables carrying out in the easiest and 
most practical manner, with perfect safety. It 
is especially valuable on a doubtful, reckless, 
runaway horse. With this "Tripper" you have 
the most powerful horse helpless, without injury 
to him. If the ground is hard or frozen, put 
pads on the knees for fear of injuring them. 

GAG STRAP. 

Take a heavy leather strap, four feet nine 
inches in length, one inch and one quarter in 
width, with buckle on one end, make a roll in 
centre of strap, ten inches in length, or in other 
words make it like crupper. When the gag strap 
is finished the gag should be three inches in cir- 
cumference. This gag strap is a wond*erful 
horse tamer of itself. It subdues, it drives, it 
melts, it coaxes, and it conquers. If you do not 
believe it try it on "Satin." Tr)' this on your 
kicky cows and it will work like a charm. 



H 



TO LEAD A VICIOUS HORSE WITH A 

HALTER. 

To lead a vicious horse is a dangerous act. 
Horse owners generally shrink from but it is 
made easy by using my halter-hitch. Have your 
halter fit well, standing on near side of the horse, 
bring your halter strap over his nose in same 
position as nose-piece, holding the halter stale 
with right hand in place, take hold of stale at 
nose-piece with left hand putting over nose-piece 
and into his mouth. This gives you a purchase 
on the upper-jaw and at the same time it effects 
the nerve, and goes to the brain of the horse. 
My "halter-hitch" is a horse cooler. 

WHY THE HORSE REQUIRES INTELLI- 
GENT MANAGEMENT. 

It is because horses are intelligent animals. 
They have a sense of reason, which may be im- 
proved by training. They are naturally disposed 
to rely upon their masters, and this disposition 
should never be overcome by the fear of injury. 
They are courageous, and at the same time tim- 
id. Their courage should be fosterd, since it 
increases their spirit and decreases their timidity. 



15 

They fear qbjects with which they are unfamil- 
iar. Once they learn that an object is harmless 
they cease to fear it. Thus they may be ac- 
customed to the sound and sight of a locomotive, 
one of the most fearful objects to them naturally, 
and if allowed to satisfy themselves that a loco- 
motive is not dangerous, they will at length want 
to touch it with the nose; for this is the last 
means a horse uses to fully satisfy himself that 
an object will not injure him. Thus satisfied, 
all further fear of that object is passed. 

SULKY COLTS. 
There is another type of extreme, usually colts, 
I frequently find, which are apparently very bad, 
and whichi hate above almost any other horse. 
A great many colts will show sulks as soon as 
you get the halter on. This class of colts should 
be handled with great care to prevent them from 
getting sulky. When you commence breaking, 
it takes a great deal of patience and time to suc- 
cessfuly break them, but when well broken they 
make the best horses. I find the best way to 
treat a sulky colt is to be kind with him at first, 
and if that does not succeed, then to use harsher 



i6 



means until he throws himself as he is sure to do. 
As soon as he is down, get two quarts of clear, 
clean water, keep him down, hold up his head 
and pour the water into his nose. This smothers 
him so he will at once get on to his feet. They 
will not throw themselves but a few times. I 
have broken th& very worst sulkers in this way. 

BALKING IN DOUBLE HARNESS. 

This is to the horse man a most perpleving 
and difficult horse to manage. There is no 
chance to cret at him to make him work. The 
whip is the usual remedy, which will only make 
matters worse; yet nothing is easier to do than 
to make this class of horses come to terms. 
There are a great many remedies for starting 
balky horses, but what I propose to do is to teach 
you how to break a balky horse successfully. If 
you have a genuine balky horse, take him at 
once and put the tripper on, handle him with it 
until you get him to understand that you are his 
master, and he entirely gives up. A great many 
men give up before the horse does. When the 
horse is perfectly subdued you can handle him 
with case. After handling in this manner, put 



^ 

the harness on. Be sure the collar fits well. 
You must make him understand that you are his 
friend as long as he obeys the word of command. 
Then hitch him to a small pole, starting him to 
right or left drawing the pole, when he has drawn 
the pole from right to left for some time, stop 
and pet him to let him know he has done right, 
never pet him only when he obeys. Increase 
your load a little at a time until he will pull every 
time you speak to him. I would suggest hitch- 
ing him to a stone boat if you cannot get a pole. 
If at any time the horse should try to play his 
old tricks, apply the tripper at once rather harsh- 
1}'. In this manner I can break any balky horse 
that you bring me. I will give you some more 
remedies for starting balky horses. 

REMEDY NUMBER ONE. 

Put the gag strap on the horse, in nine cases 
out of ten this will be sufficient without using my 
' 'Popular Tripper". 

REMEDY NUMBER TWO. 
Put a pully on end of the wagon tongue, buck- 
le a strap around each fore-leg above the knee, 
tie a rope in the strap on the off leg then pass 
through pully on end of the tongue, and tie in 



i8 



strap on near leg. Start your true horse and the 
balky horse will have to move. 

RUNAWAY BRIDLE. 

The following very simple form of overdraw 
will be found very valuable, because so simple 
and easily made, if you have a good piece of 
cord, or any small but strong cord, you can make 
a rig in a few minutes, that enables you to drive 
a bad horse Avith perfect ease. First, take a 
cord, eighteen or twenty feet in length. Put the 
centre of cord on top of the head under the 
bridle, about ten inches from this centre, tie loop 
knot making check or gag runner w^hich wmU 
come up near the ears. Pass each end down and 
through the mouth, then up and through the 
loops before named, then back through the tur- 
rets to the wagon, same as reins. The higher 
the gag-runners, the more purchase up and back. 
Wherever I have introduced my runaway bridle, 
it is considered very valuable. 

RUNAWAY HORSE. 

Put on Boss Bitting Rig harness, all complete, 
leaving lines ready for driving, put him between 



19 

two poles as described for breaking colts; also put 
on the tripper, handle him in this manner until 
he is thoroughly subdued. Then hitch him to a 
wagon, with the tripper on, so he will not get 
the advantage of you in case he should try his 
old tricks. Should he undertake to run o-ive 
him the full benefit of the "Tripper", at the same 
time speak to him the word of command; Whoa! 
A few lessons of this kind will break any horse of 
this habit. 

SAFETY BIT. 

For bit take a square piece of three-eights 
iron, with a hole in each end, making guards to 
bit eight inches in length, put these guards 
through the holes in the bit, so that they will 
work easily, then make a loop on each end of 
guard, buckle checks of bridle into gaurds of bit, 
drawing guards about two thirds through bit, 
buckle lines into lower end of guards. You have 
a bit that will hold any horse. 

KICKING IN THE HARNESS. 

Horse men find this habit to be the most 
perplexing and dangerous a horse can have. It 



20 



is not every man that is capable of managing a 
kicking horse. It has taken many hours of study 
and practice to successfully break and. overcome 
the very bad cases of kicking horses. I have 
tried many things in vain, but I finally succeeded 
in accomplishing the object which I have been in 
search of. I feel rewarded for all the time I 
have spent in obtaining the knowledge. I expect 
while importing this knowledge to others to feel 
that I have benefited the world, as well as my 
self, and save a great many useless horses to do 
good work for their master safely, it is well un- 
derstood among horse owners that a kicking 
horse is not very valuable and certainly not safe, 
for any use unless redeemed from the habit. I 
am glad to know that there is a "Balm in Gilead" 
for the kicker. It is very seldom that you find 
geldings that are addicted to kicking, but you 
frequently find mares that kick. That is not the 
only habit they have either while kicking. The 
kicking is always accompanied by the switching 
of the tail and throwing the urine. I have found 
that you can not successfully break a horse of 
kicking until you have succeeded in breaking 
him of switching the tail. The first step in 
breaking a horse of switching the tail is to put 



21 



on a harness leaving off the crupper and back 
strap, take a strap and tie your collar down to 
the belly band, so the collar car. not raise and 
choke him, next divide the hair on his tail equal, 
tying" a loop in each divide, then take two ropes, 
six feet in length, tie one in each loop of the 
tail, turn tail up over the back of the horse draw- 
ing the other end of each rope through the lower 
hame rings, draw these ropes rather tight being 
careful to have the tail drawn exactly straight 
over the centre of the back, leaving in this posi- 
tion for thirty minutes. In most cases this will 
break a horse of switching the tail, for it stretches 
the cords in the side of the tail, preventing them 
of rolling the tail, as all kickers have a peculiar 
roll to the tail before kicking. It does not pre- 
\cnt them from using the tail otherwise. Should 
one trial not be suf^cient give them another dose. 
Vou now have \'our horse broken of switching 
the tail. I consider the task more than half 
done. The next step is to always put on a blind 
bridle, take a rope, double, and tie into the rings 
of the bit useing rope for lines the same as for 
breaking colts, put on the tripper, and hitch him 
between two, poles. Drive him with tripper 
on until he is con\^inced that to kick is a *verv 



great hardship, this they soon learn by experi- 
ence. Every time he tries to kick, take his feet 
from under him. He will soon learn that the old 
adage, "Try, try again", is not true in his case. 
After you have given him this lesson, put him 
in the barn until mor ning. For fear of accident 
proceed as before, but it is a very few horses that 
I have had to put the tripper on the third time. 
Now take off the tripper and hitch on to a wagon 
with a good steady horse, and be careful for the 
first few times not to irritate him. The first 
time you hitch him up after you take the tripper 
off, put on a set of breeching letting the breech- 
ing down low, running the side straps to the bit, 
having them loose enough so he can travel with- 
out jerking his mouth. If he should attempt to 
kick with this rig on, the punishment would be 
so great, it would check him and a few trials will 
surely break him. In every case be sure and 
show your friendship, as soon as he becomes 
docile. 

CARRYING HORSE'S TAIL TO ONE SIDE. 

This is usually a deformity, or a contraction of 

one of the cords of the tail. In many cases it 

detracts from the value of the animal as it spoils 



■23 

tliL-m for a fine carriage horse. This deformity 
is a contraction that cannot be overcome readily 
as it usually takes about two weeks to successfully 
perform the operation. Put collar and hames on 
the horse leaving the crupper off, tie a rope into 
tail and draw it to the opposite side from which 
he carries it, fasten rope to hame ring and draw 
it very tight, leave him in this condition for 
thirty minutes, if this should not be sufficient give 
him another dose of one hour, it may take sever- 
al days to accomplish the desired end. You will 
have to be patient and let tim.e do its work. 
Should }'ou draw it to much, change it to the 
other side and proceed in this manner until the 
cure is affected. 

HARD l^ITTKD HORSES. 

Winding the bit with woolen yarn will prevent 
most horses from pulling on the bit. Another 
method, which never fails, is to make a small 
leather roll about the size of a common lead pen- 
cil, fasten the ends together firmly and loop it on 
a common straight bit in the centre, pass the 
loop over the upper jaw and under the lip. You 
can hold your horse with one hand v/ith your bit 
fixed this wa\\ 



24 

TO BREAK A HORSE OF BITING. 
On going in to a stall with a biting horse, take 
a sharp peg in your hand, when he attempts to 
bite you, jab him in the nose with the peg, he 
will soon turn his head from you. Take a piece 
of hard wood, six inches in length, make it three 
cornerd, cut the edges as sharp as possible, have 
it just thick enough, so that when it is in his 
mouth he can not shut his teeth together, place 
the stick in his mouth tie a string to one end and 
pass it over his head and tie to other end. You 
will notice that there are no teeth where the stick 
comes. If he will not now attempt to bite }'ou 
when you approach him, bother him and get him 
mad and he will soon tr\' to bite you, but instead 
of biting you he will bite fhe stick and punish 
himself. 

TO PREVENT HORSES ROLLING IN 

STALL. 
Take a rope, the length from ceiling to floor 
less the length of horse's head and one inch more, 
fasten one end to the ceiling, the other to the 
halter on top of his head. It is impossible for a 
horse to roll, when he cannot reach the floor with 
his nose. 



25 



REMEDY NO. 2. 



Take a surcingle, fasten a temporary pad to it, 
made with brad nails in, so that when he under- 
takes to roll, the nails will prick him. 



TO BREAK HORSE OF PAWING IN 

STABLE. 
Buckle a strap around the fore leg- above the 
knee, put on a piece of chain, eight or ten inches 
long, so that when he paws the chain will strike 
his leg. 

REMEDY NO. 2. 
Put a surcingle around horse's body, and then 
buckle a strap around surcingle and his fore leg, 
so that every time he tries to paw it will check him. 

KICKING WITH ONE FOOT IN Tllh: STA- 
BLE. 
A great many nervous horses form a habit of 
kicking with one foot in the stable while eating, 
caused by being irritated by another horse. To 
break them, buckle a strap with a piece of chain, 
eight or ten inches long, around his leg above 
the hock, so the chain will hit his leg every time 
he kicks. Self punishment will break any horse. 



26 



TO BREAK HORSE KICKING WITH BOTH 
FEET IN BARN. 

Place a piece of plank across the stall, over the 
hips, about an inch higher than the ho/se's hips. 
At each effort to kick his hips now strike the 
plank and will prevent his kicking. 

TO BREAK HORSE OF KICKING AT A 
PERSON IN STABLE. 
Put on gag-strap, then you can put on the 
tripper with perfect safety, when you get the 
tripper on take the gag-strap off, and proceed to 
handle him, do not be too lenient with him at 
first. At the first signs of kicking give him the 
full benefit of the tripper, ^and he will shortly 
understand that kicking does not pa}-. A few 
lessons of this kind will cure him. 

TONGUE HANGING OUT OF THE MOUTH. 

Some horses have the habit of carrying the 
tongue out of the mouth at one side. This hab- 
it is generally confined to a narrow jawed horses. 
The space between the molar teeth being too 
narrow to contain the tongue in the mouth when 
bit presses upon it, many times the teeth be- 



2/ 

comes rough and have sharp edges which irritate 
the tougue, and causes the horse to put his 
tongue over the bit and hang it out one side of 
the moutli. To break this habit, examine the 
teeth, if you find the edges of the teeth sharp 
and rough have them floated smooth, should the 
cause be not in the teeth, if it is only a habit, 
take a bit and drill two holes through it, put cop- 
per wire in to holes so as to form two bows in 
the mouth between the teeth, making the size of 
bow four inches in length when finished. 

ANOTHER REMEDY. 
Use a straight bit and get a strong piece of 
elastic rubber to put around the bit and horse's 
tongue. I find the following way to be very 
good. Fasten the bit in the upper part of his 
mouth b\' tying the bit to nose piece of halter. 



TO IMIKAK A HORSE OF STRIKING. 

h^irst put on a gag strap, after ha\'ing gag on, 
put on Tripper, handle him until he will let you 
go around him without offering to strike you. A 
few lessons of this kind will break him entirely. 



28 



TO PREVENT HORSES FROM STRIKING. 

Put on breeching and collar, put the rope back 
through breeching at flanlc, the same as for break- 
ing colts, let ropes come from breeching to fore- 
legs, and fasten above the knees. You have 
your horse so you can work around his fore parts 
with out fear of injury. 

JUMPING HORSES. 

Punch a hole in each ear, when you turn him 
out tie them together. He will not jump unless 
he can work his ears. Another plan is to put on 
each foot of a horse a strap with a ring on it, put 
a surcingle around him with two rings on it, one 
ring on each side, take a strong cord or rope, 
fasten one end to the ring on the hind foot, then 
pass it up through the ring in the surcingle, down 
to the ring on the fore foot. Leave the cords, 
of the right length to allow the horse to stand 
naturally, and not to hinder him from travelling. 
P'ix a horse in this manner and he can not jump. 

TO DRENCH A HORSE. 

Take a small stout cord, tie it around the neck, 
then pass it under the upper lip, over his head, 



29 

down under his lip, through the cord around his 
neck. With this cord you can doctor your horse 
withfHit the assistance of anyone. 



THE AGE OF A HORSE. 

Every owner of horses has a way of his own of 
judging of a horse's age. This is something that 
puzzles men more than any one thing about a 
horse, as a great many horse dealers cut off and 
tamper with horse's teeth. It is getting popular 
with the trnding fraternity to change the teeth, 
so that an inexperienced party cannot tell an old 
horse from a young horse. I have made it a study 
to correct some of the old theories now extant. 
My theory of testing a horse's age, I think w^hen 
understood will be found to be the easiest and 
most accurate method of telling the age of a 
horse, as I do not depend on one method alone. 
There are variations to all known rules, the dif- 
ference being in the way horses are fed, therefore 
I gi\'e two complete methods. By comparing 
the two methods you never can be deceived in 
the age of a horse. The colt when two years 
old looses his two centre nippers or front teeth, 
when three years old he looses the next two nip- 



30 

pers, when four years old the corner nippers, 
when five years old he has a full mouth, when 
six years old the corner nippers are full size and 
are more level, when seven years old the cups or 
grooves in the two centre nippers disappear, 
when eight the cups in the adjoining nippers dis- 
appear, when nine the cups in the corner nippers 
disappear. Nine men out of ten in examining 
the teeth of the horse to ascertain the age, ex- 
amine the upper jaw. The lower jaw should be 
examined also; as the teeth of the lower jaw 
show wear and change their appearance more 
surely than the upper jaw. lience both jaws 
should be examined. When ten years old a 
groove or mark appears just beneath the gum on 
the corner nipper on the upper jaw, when twenty 
one years old this groove will be at the bottom 
of the tooth. It takes eleven years for the tooth 
to ware up to the groove or mark. \'ou judge 
of the age of the horse b\' the distance of the 
mark down on the tooth. For instance, to illus- 
trate; if the mark on the tooth was half way 
down, the horse would be between fifteen and 
sixteen )'ears of age. It is generally supposed 
by man\' people that horse's teeth are continualh' 
growing, but this is a mistake. A horse's teeth 



31 

does not grow after he is fully developed. The 
gums gradually shrinks away and leave more of 
the tooth exposed to view. On the other hand 
the teeth are gradually wearing away instead of 
growing. A satisfactory proof of this is did you 
ever see an old horse have the lampers.'' 

METHOD NUMBER TWO. 
Every five years of a horse's life the ribs separ- 
ate, or in other words the muscle shrinks away 
and leaves a space that can easily be felt com- 
mencing with the rear ribs, when ten years old 
you will readily perceive that the next two ribs 
are parted. Every five years thereafter a rib 
will part or separate as long as the horse lives. 
If }^ou are careful to apply both methods you will 
not buy man}- twcnt}' year old horses for nine 
}'ear old. 

* 

THE TEETH. 

I am coming to a subject now that is the most 
neglected of any about a horse. A great many 
people think if they feed and clean a horse that 
is all that is necessary or if sometimes the horse 
is taken violently sick with bots, belly ache or 
some other disease, there must be something 
done immediately, or the horse will die. In my 



32 



experience I have found that farmers feed a great 
many bushels of grain more than they would need 
to feed if the)' took more pains to understand 
that important subject, the teeth. If a horse 
commences to run down the cause giv^en is hard 
work or something else, never thinking that the 
horse has an ulcerated tooth and is at the very 
time oiroaninij, or would <jroan if he could make 
his master understand what was the matter of 
him. I was once called to see an ugly^ horse, the 
owner said that the horse had always been ver}' 
kind but in the last few days he would not allow 
any one to touch him, and was getting vicious, 
would not eat but stand all day with his head 
down acting as if he was in pain, he also said that 
every thing had been don • that he could think 
of, but nothing had seem -cl to allex'iatc? him, now 
the fact was, that no one had even thought the 
horse had teeth, that cou!J ache or ulcerate. I 
made the remark to the o.vner that it might be 
possible that the horse had an ulcerated tooth, 
oh how he laughed, I la! Ha! It only t )ok a 
fev\' minutes to convince him I was right. I took 
mv mouth opener and stepped upto the horse, 
put it in his mouth and showed him the ulcerated 
tooth. He said "is that possible!" "I have 



33 

owned horses for twenty years and had never 
thought of a horse having such a thing as that." 
I took my forceps and pulled the tooth and in 
, less than ten minutes the horse was eating. It 
would astonish horse owners, if all the facts were 
known about horses teeth. How many horses 
die on the account of their teeth c\'ery year. A 
great many think that when okl horses do not 
grind their food pro[)erl}', the cause is old age, 
and the front teeth being to long not letting the 
back teeth come together, this is erroneous, as 
the front teeth are no longer at twenty \'ears old 
thar; at se\'en \'ears old. If a horse commences 
to run tlown iu flesh it is most always thought 
that his digestion is bad and the owner will start 
for the drug store for condition ])o\vders, wheii 
(thcHacts arc tlu' horse is suffering from his teeth, 
antl in m\- teaching I try t(^ impress up on the 
minds of men this important subject for 1 consid- 
er it of so much imi)ortance, that 1 luue madt- it 
a special ])lea in ni\' book for the benefit of the 
noble horse. One thing I wish to bring before 
\'our minds especialK' is the fact that like men, 
horses lose their teeth, and when a horse loses 
a tof)th the one opposite does not wear off and 
therefore it becomes lonsj' enoui>"h so that it will 



34 

come in contact with the g'um and will at each 
move of the horse's jaw cut into the gum and 
hurt him, so that he will swallow quite a large 
amount of food without grinding" it properly. 
You will see that he does not get the full benefit 
of the food you give him. A great many times 
a horse's teeth do not wear alike, leaving corners 
on the teeth that are not worn down, these cor- 
ners or edges with every movement of the jaw 
will come in contact with the cheek, and cause 
an irritation and soreness, when this is the case, 
the horse while eating hard, grain will turn his 
head to one side, just as if he was going to throw 
it out, and will show a great deal of uneasiness 
while eating. This can easil)- be remedied by 
any veterinary. 

TOSMOl'.A VK^KU^S IK^RSK. 

Put on the gag strap. If this should fail, 
take a common rum or tie strap, put a slip noose 
around the horse's leg just above the gambrel or 
hock joint, pull on the strap. He will soon give 
up his foot, keep the strap tight. You can shoe 
him with ease. Another method. Tie a knot 
in horse's tail, buckle a strap in loop of tail with 



35 

a ring on it, then buckle a strap with a ring on 
it, on his ankle, tie a rope into the ring in the 
tail, run the rope through the ring on the ankle, 
back through the ring on the tail, pull on the 
rope, bringing foot in position for shoeing. To 
shoe in front. Put a surcingle around the horse 
attach a rope to foot, draw his foot up and hold 
it until he will give up. To clinch, ha\ e the col- 
lar on and put the rope through it. 

TO HRKAK A IIORSK OF SCARING AT 
BUFFALO, UMBRELLA FTC. 

But the halter-hitch on your horse, holding 
him firnih' by the halter stale, moving the article 
toward him carefully in this manner, until you 
can get him to smell or feel of it with his nose. 
A horse's sense of feeling is located in the nose. 

ANOTIIKR METHOD. 
But on the tripper, and handle him as describ- 
ed above. If occasion requires, take his feet 
from under him, while in this condition approach 
him with the article, which he is afraid of. Al- 
ways remember that kindness is the first law of 
nature. 



I 



36 

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Real Estate Dealers, 



-o- 



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37 
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-o- 



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38 



CORNS. 

They are the result of uneven pressure of the 
shoe, too much bearing on the quarters. Re- 
move the shoe, cut out the bruised part, fill with 
equal parts of turpentine and lard, sear with a 
hot iron. REMEDY No. 2. — Fill the cavity with 
brown sugar, burn the sugar in with a hot iron. 

ACUTE FOUNDER. 

Sometimes it is caused by overwork, in which 
the feet are pounded and sored up, drinking cold 
water when warm, or stand i'ng in draught when 
heated will cause it. What to do, give one quart 
of raw linseed oil at a dose. Pull off the shoes, 
and pare the shell of the feet down, so as to let 
him stand on the sole of the foot. Rub the fore- 
legs well with water as hot as it can be borne 
without scalding. It is also a good plan to start 
the blood in each foot at the point of the frog. 
Give two ounces of pulverized alum every two 
hours, for twelve hours, and then three times a 
day until he is better, keep bowels loose. 

ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
Mix.-— One ounce sweet spirits of nitre. 

One dram tincture of aconite root, 
One ounce potash nitrate, 
One-half pt. of water. 



39 

For a dose, give a table-spoonful every two 
hours, until the fever abates, and the patient be- 
comes comfortable, then give three times a day. 

PRICKING FROM NAILS. 

Pricking may come from a nail running into the 
quick when shoeing, or a nail may be picked up 
in the street. 

Remedy. — When you have removed the shoe, 
and found where the prick is, pare out the hole, 
and around it a little, to thin the hoof; this 
will relieve the pressure, when it begins to swell, 
turn in a small quantity of solution of carbolic 
acid, one part of acid to twenty of water, or use 
a little turpentine. 

CALKS. 

Calks are cuts and bruises on the caronet, or 
soft parts above it, caused by one foot stepping 
upon the other, and the calk of the shoe if sharp, 
cuts in to the flesh. It is most common in fall, 
winter and spring, when mud and snow are deep. 
What to do. — Mix. — One-half ounce carbolic 
acid, in one pint of water. 



40 

THRUSH. 
Thrush is the name given to a disease of the 
frog. It is a rotting or ulceration of the frog, 
and is attended with a very offensive, black, 
watery discharge. The frog rots completly off 
sometimes, and extends down in the cleft be- 
tween the heels, to a depth of from half an inch 
to two inches. What to do. — Trim off all the 
ragged parts of the frog, clear out all the holes 
and crevices with a case knife, or with some 
similar instrument, then apply a linseed poultice, 
with charcoal powdered over the surface. After 
twenty-four hours, clear it all off, and dress the 
effected parts with calomel, well introduced into 
all the cracks, with a case knife. Repeat this 
once or twice, letting a day intervene between 
the applications. When it is all dried up, dress 
the part with pine tar. 

Prevention. — Pick out the feet well, each day, 
to let the air in around the frog, which is neces- 
sar}' to keep them healthy. 

BONK SPAVIN. 
A bone spavin is an enlargement of the lower 
part of the hock joint. At the first appearance 



41 

of the bone spavin there will be a lameness, more 
or less acute according to the amount of injury 
to the joint. The lameness will be distinguished 
by a stiffness in moving from side to side in the 
stall, after the horse has been driven a short time 
and gets warmed up, he will go all right, until 
he is allowed to cool off, when he start oft worse 
then ever, until warmed up again. Tlie cause of 
this is. by standing, the joint becomes dry, and 
great pain attends the llexion of it, but the exer- 
cise excites the secretion of joint oil, which lub- 
ricates it, and the horse is comfortable till the 
joint gets dry again. 

ivK.MF.L)\. — lup ounces of turpentine, bathe 
the parts freely, putting on four layers of flannel 
and a|)plying a hot flat-iron thoroughly heating 
in. l\ei)eat until cured. The horse should not 
be heavy w orked w hile under treatment. 

]U)G SPAVIN. 
How to know it. -There will be a large soft 
swelling on tjie inner and front aspect of the 
hock. The swelling is of the same character as 
wind galls; it seems to be filled with air, but it is 
s\novia. What to do. — Hathe it as continuousl)- 
as possible with either hut or cold water for 



42 

twelve hours, then apply an oil-meal poultice, 
hot and soft. Continue the poultice for several 
days, changing it for one day, and bathing with 
hot water at the time of changing, when the 
soreness and lameness are gone apply the follow- 
ing liniment twice a day. 

Mix. — Three ounces tincture of iodine, 
One ounce aqua ammonia, 
One ounce turpentine. 
One ounce of glycerine. 

CURB. 

The curb is an enlargement on the back of the 
hock and a little below it. What to do. — In a 
recent case, when the sprained .tendons and the 
ligaments are sore, swollen and hot, bathe the 
part with water, three or four times aday, for a 
half hour at a time. Raise the heel an inch, 
continue this treatment till all soreness is gone. 
Then appl\' turpentine to the affected part and 
rub downward with a smooth round piece of wood, 
and give three or four weeks of rest. 

RING-BONE. 

Is an enlargement of the pastern joint. What 
to do. —Apply turpentine and hot flat the same 
as for bone spavin. 



43 

SPLINT. 

A splint is an enlargement on the cannon bone 

just below the knee usually on the inside, but it 

is some times on the out side. What to do. — If 

noticed when the injury first occurs, apply either 

hot or cold water with the cooling lotion, 

Mix. — One ounce muriate of ammonia, 
One ounce salt petre, 
One quart of water. 

Till the soreness is nearly gone, then apply 

blister made as follows: 

Mix. — One half ounce powdered cantharides, 
Two drams red iodid of mercury, 
Four ounces of lard. 

Give a couple weeks of rest. 

SWKEiNEY. 

llowtol^now it. I'he shoidder and leg are 
carried forward all a piece: no kn.ee action: the 
shoulder carried forward and the leg sweeney: at 
the time the leg is being taken forward the head 
is nodded dcnvn at the start and suddenly jerked 
up, toward the finish of the action. There is an 
inabilit)' to raise the leg to step over an obstacle 
a loot high, but he will drag the leg over. Swel- 
ling, heat and soreness are noticed. If allowed 



44 

to run on with out treatment, will keep getting 
worse, when lameness is localed in shoulder, use 
the following preparation. When the sprains as 
sweene}' first appears bathe well with the follow- 
ing liniment. 

Mix.— 2 oz. organum oil, 
2 oz. oil spike, 
2 oz. oil cedar, 
I pt alcohol, 

.Vp|)l\' to shoulder or affepled pares also good for 

a sprain of an\' kind. If the above should not 

effect a cure then put in what is called a blind 

rowel to fill out the shrinkage cut a small hole at 

the upper part of the shoulder just large enough 

to admit your finger, put your finger inside of 

hole and work the hide and tendons loose from 

the bone all around the hole, then cut a piece of 

leather round and about three inches in diameter 

with a small hole in center, double it and put it 

in to hole and smooth out smooth, and put a 

piece of poke root in hole cut in leather, this 

starts an iritation and starts it to running it will 

work to the bottom of shoulder and the shoulder 

will fill out so you never would know it had been 

s weened, the leather works as far down as there 

is any disease and after it gets to bottom of 



45 

shoulder take it out. I have seen horses sweened 
bad that had never h'mped a step nor shown any 
signs of lameness, and the shoulder had shrunk 
awa)' badl\ . 

HOW TO LC^CATE A HORSE'S LAMENESS. 
Lead your horse over a pole or wagon tongue, 
about a foot high. If the lameness is in the. 
shoulder he will alwa\'s put the well foot over 
the jjole first, if he comes up so it would come 
right for him to put the lame leg over first he will 
sto]) and put the well foot over first. If lameness 
's below the shoulder, he will put one foot over 
the pole as ([uick as the other. 

SCRATClll'.S (^R CRACKED HEEL. 

Scratched or cracked heels are simply chaps 
arid cracks around the heels, and in the hallow of 
the pastei-n, they correspond to chapped hands 
in man. What to do. — When the horse comes 
in, w i})e off the parts as nicely as possible, band- 
age them with a flannel to keep them warm and 
w hen dr\- clean them thoroughU' with a brush 
not touching them with water at all. Thorough- 
cleanse the blood, by gi\ing saltpetre, sulpher, 
lopptTas of equal parts. Pulverize fine, give 



46 



two tablespoonfuls per day. Then apply an oint- 
ment made of lard and pounded alum in equal 
parts. 

Anotiikr RkmkI)\. — Apply human dunij to 
afflicted part.s once a day for three days, and 
then wash with soft water and castile soap. Al- 
wa)'s wipe dry. Repeat until cured. 

IIh:AVh:S. 

Jt is incureable, but 'it can l^c alleviated b\' 

careful feeding; and so controlled that onh' the 

best judg-e of a horse will notice it. Wet every 

thing he eats, and o-jve the followinf;- mixture 

twice a da\' in soft feed for a week and then once 

a week. 

Mix. — Two ounces powdered lobelia seed, 
Two ounces linseed meal. 

Never check up a henve\' horse. 

STOCKING. 
Stocking; is the name g"i\en to swelling- of the 
legs, usually confined to the parts below the knees 
and hocks, although in bad cases it extends above 
these joints. Causes. — Weakness of the tissues 
of the legs, being unable to support the pressure 
above; weak, watery, impoverished condition of 



47 



the blood, and the legs being the most depend- 
ent part it settles on them. • Standing still is a 
very common cause so much so that there is a 
good deal of it just from standing from night till 
morning. It is most common in badly drained 
and illy ventilated stables. Young horses are 
more sitbject to it than older ones. It is often a 
symptom of some disease that requires attention; 
r for stocking in disease is always a symptom of 
weakness which needs tonics and stimulants. 
What to do. — Give the following tonic, one 
})owder night and morning, in the feed: 

Mix. — One and one-half ounce pure sulfate of 
iron. 
Two ounces nitrate of potash, 

IVnvder, and divide into twelve powders. 

Sliower the legs with cold water in hot weather 
l)ut omit the water in cold weather, give gentle 
exercise to reduce the swelling, and when com- 
ing in from exercise or work, bandage them tight; 
if in summer, use cotton bandages; in winter use 
flannel. Avoid all strong, irritating or blistering 
applications. If necessary, repeat the powders. 
Remo\'e the bandages on going out for exercise, 
and gi\'e the legs hand-rubbing. 



48 



STIFLED HORSE. 
In case of dislocation tie a rope to the pastern 
and pull it forward, and a little outward at the 
same time, the man handlini^- the rope standini4" 
about a yard from the horse's shoulder; and an- 
other man standing- at the stifle shoves the bone 
back in to its place, b\- pushing toward the 
horse's flank, it will slij) in with a snap. Then 
put on a hii^h-heeled shoe, the heels raised two 
inches, and bathe the stifle as continously as 
})ossible with the followini^: 

Mix. — Ounce muriate of ammonia. 
One ounce of salt petre, 
One quart of water. 

When the inflamation that folh^ws is t^'one, apply 

a blister all an^und the joint and use tlu follow- 

inL( for blister: 

Mix. — One half ouncc^ powder cantharides, 
Two ounces of lard. 

Give a long rest, if this does not cure in four or 

five weeks, a seaton ma\- ])e i)ut in over the joint 

running up and down about four inches; wash it 

clean, once or twice a da\' w ith hot water, lea\'e 

it in from t\\'o to four weeks. 

SPASMODIC COLIC. 
How to know it.— The horse will begin to 



49 



show uneasiness and look around; raises up his 

hind feet toward his belly; he lies down and gets 

up again after lying perhaps a couple of minutes. 

He rolls, kicks; sweats profusely, has a haggard 

countenance, is inclined to turn upon his back 

and remain so. 

Remedy. — Mix. — Two ounces of whiskey, 
One ounce extract of ginger. 
Half pint of water. 

Or the following: One and one-half ounces of 
Sweet Spirits of Nitre, one ounce of Laudunum, 
one-half ounce Extract of Ginger. 

Alwa}^s when possible give warm water injec- 
tions with a ver\' little soap in it, just to make it 
a little slippery. 

Common Cure Vor Coetc. — One table-spoon- 
ful of salaratus in one pint of warm tea, or warm 
water if tea cannot be had. If first dose does 
not relieve, repeat and increase dose. 

WHAT TO DO FOR WORMS. 
There are numerous useful vermifuges, the 
most convenient of which is the following: One 
drachm sulphate of iron, one drachm tartar emet- 
ic, two drachms linseed meal. Mix. Give at 
one dose repeating it morning and evening for a 
week. Then give a purgative of oil and turpen- 



50 

tine as follows: Mix, one ounce spirits of tur- 
pentine, one pint raw linseed oil. Give at one 
dose. 

After three weeks repeat the entire treatment 
to catch the young worms previously left in the 
bowels in the form of nits or eggs, and which 
have hatched since. 

Another. — One tea-spoonful of alum in each 
feed for six feeds, 

LICK ON HORSES AND CATTLE. 

Tobacco, two pounds, water, two gallons. 
Steep and wash the animal. 

Remedy No. 2. — Carbolic acid, one table- 
spoonful to one quart of soft water. Apply with 
a brush. 

CHRONIC COUGH. 
Remedy. — Two ounces liquor ammonia, two 
ounces spirits of turpentine, two ounces linseed 
oil. Apply this to the throat, well rubbing it in 
all around and up toward the ears. Give intern- 
ally the following powders: One and one-half 
ounces camphor gum, one ounce digitalis, two 
ounces linseed meal. Powder and mix. Divide 
into twelve powders and give one night and 
morning in soft feed. 



51 

CURE FOR DISTEMPER. 
Make a poultice by boiling turnips, the same 
as for table use, when nearly cooked stir in bran 
while cooking, until you have a thick poultice. 
After having bran and turnips thoroughly cooked 
stir in tobacco enough to make poultice smell 
strong of tobacco. Apply to throat and swollen 
parts. This will relieve in a few moments. Al- 
so burn some old leather by putting leather on a 
vessel filled with coals and holding under horse's 
nose so he will inhale smoke. When watering, 
only give a pail of water at a time with two table- 
spoonfuls of tincture of bromide of potassium. 
I have cured colts with this remedy that had been 
given up to die. 

SURE CURE FOR SCOURS. 
Fill a small cotton sack with flour and put into 
a kettle of water, boil until hard. Then pulver- 
ize and give to the animal until relieved. 

SURE CURE FOR POLE-EVIL OR FISTULA 
These diseases are both of the same nature but 
have different locations. The pole-evil is locat- 
ed on the top of the head and the fistula on the 
shoulders. 

Remedy. — Take a small piece of blue vitriol 



52 

that will just fit into the pipe or tube, press it 
down to bottom of pipe with a small stick. Be 
sure not to take the pipe out until it is loose at 
the bottom, so you can get it all. How^ to know 
when you have it all out — at the base of the pipe 
there is a solid piece like the end of your finger. 
When pipe is out keep clean by washing well 
each morning with soap-suds. until healed. 

TO CURE A NAVEL BREACH ON A COLT. 
First see that all the intestines are put back in 
place and if they still keep coming down, put on a 
bandage with a pad on it, letting pad come di- 
rectly over ruptured parts. Pinch, and at the 
same time crowd inwardly, directly o\'er the 
opening, three or four times a day until healed. 
This irritates the lining and in a short time it 
will close up and be as sound as if it liad ne\'er 
been ruptured. 

HOOF OINTMENT. 
Take Resin three ounces. Beeswax six ounces. 
Lard two pounds; melt together and pour into a 
pot. Add two ounces of turpentine, two ounces 
of finely pulrerized verdigris, one pound of tal- 
low. Stir together until it gets cold. This is 
one of the best things for a horse's hoof made. 



53 

TO GROW A NEW HOOF. 
The following wash will grow a new hoof onto 
a horse in ninety days if used according to direc- 
tions: One quart of soft soap made from wood 
ashes, two quarts of chamber-lie, one-quarter of 
a pound of copperas. Put in tight can and keep 
well covered, stirring before using. Take a brush 
or swab and apply to horse's feet every morning, 
until they become soft. If horse is working, you 
can not use as freely as if not at work, as his feet 
will s:et so soft he can not travel. Anoint as 
high as ankles, keep feet well pared down, and 
shoe with shoes that will spread the foot. Shoe 
often, at least once a week. 

TO CURk: A QUARTER CRACK. 
Take knife and cut crosswise of crack at top of 
hoof. This will start crack to running the other 
way and as soon as }^ou can grow hoof out your 
horse is well. Use wash or hoof ointment. 

CURE ALL. 
Good for sore shoulder, calks, or any kind of 
wounds: Alcohol two ounces, water two ounces, 
turpentine two ounces, vinegar four ounces, two 
eggs. Shake well and apply to wound. Vou 
will find it a number one liniment. 



.54 ^ 

FOR 15ARB-VVIRE CUTS. 
For barb-wire curts or any old sore Take car- 
bolic acid one 'pant to twenty parts of water or a 
little stronger if'desired. 

BLISTER. 
Pulverized cantharadies two drachms, powder- 
ed capsicum one drachm, spirits of turpentine two 
drachms, oil of organum one drachm, lard one 
drachm. When you blister any part of the horse 
rub the part you wish to blister thoroughly, and 
if you wish to remove any callous or enlargement 
shave the hair close. 

BLUE MOUNT ALN SALVE. 

Two oz. verdigris, 2 oz. blue vitriol, 2 oz. 
alum, 2 oz. resin, .\ pint turpentine, 2 lbs. of lard, 
2 oz. beeswax. 

LLNIMENT, 
For man or beast. Half oz of turpentine, 4 oz 
linseed oil, 2 oz aqua amonia, 2 oz origanum, 2 
oz comp. tinct benzoin. 

FOR INFLAMATION OF TME EYES, 
Fresh wounds and Bruises. Mix. — Sugar of lead 
2 o^, sulfate of zinc 21 grains, soft water one 

quart. ... ; ; 



55 

LINIMENT, 
I^^or both man and beast. Mix. — Oiivc oil 3 oz, 
cedar oil i oz, oil origanum i oz, camphor gum" 
I oz, tincture cantharides i oz, aqua amonia 2 oz. 

LAMPERS. 
Prick the lampers with knife or some sharp 
instrument and bathe with the tincture of m\Trh 
[ oz, rain water 2 oz. 

TO REMOVE FILM, 
pj'om the eyes of horses and cattle. P.qual parts 
of loaf sugar, fine table salt, pulverize fine. Blow^ 
into the eye every ^la}- until cured. 

AxoriiF.R Remedy.— Pulverize blue vitriol 
one part, and loaf , sugar three parts. Take a 
goose quill, fill it with the mixture, and blow into 
the eye once a day; until cured. 

HOTS. 
About four quarts of strong coffee will cure the 
bots, and is said to be ijood for colic. 



j=. 



COLD ON THE LUNGS. 
Give five drops of aconite, and five drops of 
belladonna alternate every two hours until re- 
lieved. Give by putting on tongue. It is also 



good for lung fever. 



s6 



FOR COLLAR GALLS. 

Anoint with white lead. Another, sulphur 
and calomel, mix and apply as soon as collar is 
taken off while damp, or use cure all. 

TO TAKE WARTS OFF OF HORSE. 
Take a hair out of his tail and tie around the 
wart. It will soon cut it off. It will heal as 
fast as it cuts. 

KIDNEY DISEASE. 
Take one heaping" teaspoonful of saltpetre dis- 
solved in warm rain water, add one pint of cold 
after dissolving. Dose one tablespoonful every 
twenty four hours, repeat the dose and so on. 

WHEN HORSES' BLOOD IS OUT 0¥ 

ORDER. 

Put a rowel in the breast, then take saltpetre, 
sulphur and copperas, equal parts, pulv^erize fine. 
Give two tablespoonfuls per day. Sulphur is 
cleansing, saltpetre cooling, and copperas is a 
purgative. 

WHEN A HORSE IS NOT DOING WELL, 
And hair looks bad, I find the following simple 
remedy to be very good. Give one half teacup- 
ful of black strap molasses once a day in oats. 



Mix.—- 4 QZr finnegrate: seed,- i2 o0 . copperla^, ! 
2 oz black antimoney, 2 oz blood root pulverizedi,! ,/ 
4 oz resin, 2 oz saltpetre, 2 qts wood ashes siftr: ! 
ed. Uose one table-spoonful once a day. 

COMMON HEALING SALVE. 
Take resin and beeswax, each, two ounces, 
sweet oil eight ounces; melt together, stirring 
till cold. 

EOR TOOTHACHE. 

Take two drams of alum in powder, and one 

ounce of nitrous spirits of either; mix and dis- 
solve; apply a little to the tooth, and in the 
tooth if hollow. 

LL\TMENT VOW RHEUMATISM, 

i'or man or beast. Four eggs, well beaten to- 
gether; \'inegar, one cjuart; spirits of turpentine, 
four ounces; spirits of wine, one ounce; camphor, 
one ounce. These ingredients to be beaten well 
together, then put in a bottle and shake for ten 
minutes after which to be corked down tightly 
to exclude air. In half an hour it is fit for use. 
To be well rubed in, two, three or four times a 
da)', before fire. 



5^ 



RHKUMATISM OF LONG STANDING, 
Is al\va)'s chronic. When the above remedy 
will be useful, tog;ether with sweatning medicines. 
The bowels must be kept open and diet low. It 
is always well to keep the parts affected covered 
with cotton battin«-. 

hX)R RHKUMATISM. 

The best external application which we have 
ever used is the following". I know of a case 
that was cured by this application of long; stand- 
ing". Spirits camphor one ounce; s])irits of harts- 
horn one ounce; spirits turpentine one ounce; 
number six, called hot drops, one ounce; lauda- 
num one tablespoon-ful; neats foot (^il one-half 
pint and one beef's L^all. Cut the beefs j^all and 
let the <^rreen stuff that is in it run into a bottle, 
then add to it the abo\'c articles. Shake up well 
and cork tifjht; it is readv for use. The onl\' 
part of the g'all that is of any use is the <^Teen 
juice it contains. The lari^er the beef's c^all the 
better. Apph' three times a day, rub down 
freelx' with this liniment, and co\'er with cotton, 
as I have before told }'ou. If }T)u cannot use 
cotton rub on liniment at nit.dit and thoroughl}' 
heat it in bv the fire. 



5-9..- 



GREEN SALVE. 
Take resin and beeswax, eacli, one ounce; 
mutton tallow, or hog's lard about four ounces; 
melt altogether, and stir in one drachm of pulver- 
ized verdigris and mix well. Useful for old sores 
cuts, wounds, ulcers and cancers. 

VOR BURNS AND SCALDS. 

Common sugar house molasses is very good, 
if honey cannot be had. Raw potatoes scraped 
and mixed with sweet oil, or linseed oil. A few 
drops of turpentine is also a good application. 

TO II I ROW A COW. 

Take a rope tie into the halter or to horns, 
tlraw head to one side put a half hitch around 
l)ack of fore legs, and another half hitch in front 
of hind legs, and get behind cow and })ull, and 
cow will have to lie chnvn. 

TO ALVKk: THE COWS COMIC HOME AT 

NIGHT. 

Make out of stiff leather a tube the shape of a 
length of stovepipe, of sufficient size to go on the 
lore leg of the bell cow and fasten it to the girt. 
\'oin* cow cannot lie down to rest until the tube 
is off. When she comes home take it off. She 



6<^^ 

soon learns to come- and 'rc^t/artbthe rest of the 
coWs'fdllow'ing. ' ' " 

COWS WHO CAST THEIR WETHERS. 
Wash wethers clean with warm milk, then 
bathe well with stroni^' alum water. Sprinkle 
with finely powdered rosin. Run your arm in 
full length, hold it there until it begins to stick 
to your hand. Rub back with something heavy 
to keep them from striving while putting back 
the wethers. Take up hide across small of the 
back, put a small awl hole through the hide, and 
tie a string or hair around it. 

TO PREVENT COW OE KICKING WHILE 

MILKING. 

Use gag strap same as for horse, buckle tight 
and proceed to milk. 



■w 



Anyone wishing a copy of this book can se- 
cure it by remitting $2.00 to W. L. Hai.l, 
Algona, Iowa. 



FARM FOR SALE! 



Tlie undersigned has, foi saL- .'. lariii oi 369 
;cres, prairie 323 acres, timber 15 acres, ari.i a 
very fine piece of meadow bottom land on the 
JJes Moines river. House 20 by 30 feet, one and 
one half stor}^ l^'L^'^^ with a good ceHar under the 
whole house, a barn and granar}- one and one 
lialf story high, corn crib and etc. 2.\ acres of 
artificial gro\'e north of tlie buildings for protec- 
tion, 80 acres in p.asture fenced with posts with 
4 wires. Also a hog pasture of 5 acres. Two 
ood wells affording excellent water. The 
chool house is located on the south west corner 
>.f the farm. This farm is on the main road from 
.Vlgona to Ft. Dodge, and located 5. J miles south 
(if Algona tlie county seat of Kossuth county, 
which has a population of 2300, and two leading 
lines of rail roads, the C. M. & St. P. and C. & 
N. \V, It is also 3 miles south west of Irvington 
a good shipping and trading point. A first class 
iarm for stock or grain aaid has not failed to raise 
.1 crop for a number of years. It is in first class 
condition and within | of a mile of the Des 
Moines river. Jt can be liad at the low price of 
$27 per acre, on long time and easy payments. 
The reason for selling is poor health. Corres- 
pondence is solicited. HeNRV TaTTERSON, 

Algona, Iowa. 




L/BRARY OF 



CONGRESS 

•II m 



002 863 114 g' 



